The Flight of Gods 36. Religious Maths (Hindu Monastries)

The Flight of Gods
by Mohan Pai

Math Sampradaya (Monasteries)

 

- Repositories of  faith.

The Maths or the monasteries have played a very important role in preserving and restoring religious identities of the Hindu communities that were traumatised by the Portugese campaign of conversion and the institution of Inquisition which led to a large scale migration of Goan Hindus during the sixteenth and the seventeenth centuries. These families got scattered all along the western coast of Maharashtra, Karnataka and Kerala.

Some of the monasteries like the Gaudapadacharya Math of Kavalem, Gokarn Partagali Math and Kashi Math are very ancient, their histories stretching back to several centuries before the arrival of the Mohamedans and the Portugese in Goa.

 

History

Saraswat Brahmins are Brahmins who lived on the banks of the former river Saraswati that once flowed in northern India, joining the Ganga and Yamuna in Prayag. Saraswats are considered among the oldest and most widespread community in India, still preserving their own culture. There is a Shaivite (Smarhta )as well as a Vaishnavite sect in Saraswats.

Around 1000 BC, the river Saraswati started vanishing under ground and the people on its banks started migrating to other parts of India thus forming sub-communities. There are many sub-communities in Saraswats in India, including: Goud Saraswat Brahmins (found in majority in Goa, Maharashtra, Karnataka, Kerala) Chitrapur Saraswats Bhalavalikar/Rajapur Saraswat Brahmins Kashimri Saraswats (Kashmiri Pandits) Punjabi Saraswats/Punjabi Brahmins Sind Saraswats Kutch Saraswats Rajasthan Saraswats Saraswat’s from Uttranchal(now Uttarakhand).

The story of the migration of this community can be traced from Sintashta-Petrovka and Arkaim regions of modern Lower Central Russia near the border of Kazakhistan. These migratory experiences were written and the scrolls can be found stored in the Partagali Math. These scrolls were studied by the Archaeological Survey of India for studying the theory of Aryan migration. The community which was called Saraswat, as in “Saraswati Teeraya yasya tey” (meaning the people residing by the River Saraswati), spread to parts of modern Afghanistan, Punjab and Kashmir. From here, they slowly migrated towards some place in Nepal. In fact, the Kula Devi (presiding deity for the clan) of the Kings of Nepal is the Goddess “Shree Mahalasa Narayani” (a female form of the divine lord Vishnu), whose temple is now located in Mhardol in Goa, India.

They then moved to modern Bengal, which was known as “Gauda Desha” in ancient times. From this place, with the blessings of their Guru, a small community comprising of people from Seven-and-a-half (Saadi-Saat) Gothras moved into lower part of India, starting with Goa, and onwards into Karnataka and Kerala. These people were addressed as Goud Saraswat Brahmins.

There are four key Maths or religious monasteries of the Saraswats – the Kashi, Gokarna-Partagali, Kavle & Chitrapur Maths. Of these, the Kashi Math is dominated by the Goud Saraswats of the Dakshina Kannada and Udupi districts of Karnataka, Mumbai, and Cochin region of Kerala. The Goud Saraswats of Uttara Kannada, Goa, and southern coastal Maharashtra follow the Gokarn Math as well as the Kavle Math. The Chitrapur Saraswats consider themselves a separate group and have their own math at Shirali although Kuladevatas are common both among the Goud Saraswats and Chtrapur Saraswats. The Rajapur Saraswat Brahmins follow the Kavle Math. Originally all Saraswats used to bear allegiance to the Kavale Math or Kaivalya Matht. Each different Saraswat group is usually endogamous.

There is a fifth math at Dabholi known as Kudaldeshkars Math located near Vengurla. GSB’s from Kudal region call themselves Kuldaldeshkar Brahmins rather than GSB’s. They follow the Dabholi Mutt.

 

 

Shree Gaudapadacharya Kaivalya Math

 

Kavalem

H. H.Shreemad Satchidanand Saraswati Swamiji

The Kavalem Math is the oldest of the Maths of Saraswats. It follows the Smarta tradition and Shiva, Vishnu, Ganapathi, Suryanarayana and Shakti are the gods (called Panchayatana) being worshipped by this system. After migration to Gomantak, due to lack of communication facilities, the Saraswats settled in Goa lost contact with their roots in Saraswat desh. Being Brahmins, the Saraswats needed a spiritual leader, or Swami. In 740 A.D., at the request of the Saraswats of Gomantak, Swami Vivarananda of the Gaudapada tradition from Kashmir founded the Math at Kaushasthali and the whole Saraswat community in Goa and Konkan was the followers of this Math. This belonged to the Smarta tradition. The original Gaudapadacharya Math founded at Kushsthali, was destroyed during the Portuguese rule in Goa in 1564 A.D. The 57th guru Vidyananda Saraswathi and his two successors stayed at Golvan in Ratnagiri and the 60th guru Ramananda Saraswati at Chindar. His successors Sadananda Saraswati and Bhavananda Saraswati stayed and attained samadhi at Varanasi and never visited Goa. The community members earlier approached Bhavananda Saraswati and pleaded with him to come back to Goa. Bhavananda Swamy (the 62nd Guru) sent his disciple Sachchidananda swamy (the 63rd Guru) to revive the math in Goa. The Swamy stayed at Sonavade in Ratnagiri till the time the Math at Kavale was ready. The math headquarters was then shifted to Kaivalyapura in 1630 A.D. and presently known as Kavale Mutt. The present pontiff is Shri Swami Sachidananda Saraswati. He is the 75th guru of the math. He was initiated into sanyasa in 1950 at the tender age of 13.

The Math has opened its branches all over India at Vàrànasi, Gokarn, Khànàpur, Sadàshivgad, Allàhabad, Nàsik, Mumbai and Goa. The Smartha Gaud Sàraswats Brahmins (including Rajapur Saraswat Brahmins) are the followers of this Math.

 

 

Gokarn-Partagali Jeevottam Math
 

Partagali

The Math is situated at Partagali in Canacona taluka. It is the math of the Goud Saraswat Community belonging to the Vaishnava sect. The math has a history of over 500 years. It was established in 1475 by Swamiji Shrimad Narayantirtha and presently headed by 23rd Pontiff, H.H. Shree Vidhyadhiraj Teerth Swamijee who belongs to an uninterrupted lineage of 23 Pontiffs.

H. H. Shrimad Vidyadhiraj Teerth Shreepad Vader Swamiji

The group of Saraswats migrated along the sea shore were mainly Vaishnavas and acquired a reputation for trade and agriculture. There were large settlements at Manglore and Bhatkal and smaller settlements at other coastal towns. Ramachandra Tirtha of the Udupi Palimar mutt initiated a Saraswat boy as sanyasi calling him as Narayana Tirtha in 1475. Sri Narayana Tirtha (a Saraswat) of the Udupi Palimar Mutt during the 15th Century extensively conducted propaganda in Goa, that many Saraswats in Sasashti region became Vaishnavas. Though the Palimar Swamy, Ramacandra Tirtha wanted Narayana Tirtha to succeed to his Math, it was not liked by the Tulu Vaishnava brahmins who were followers of the Math, and hence a new Math for Vaishnava Saraswats was founded at Bhaktal in 1476 A.D.

 This Math enjoyed the patronage of the Keladi rulers and the Vaishnava Saraswats of Goa and most of those from undivided Canara were its followers. By fame and capacity of the third Guru, Swami Jeevottama Tirtha, the Math came to be also known as Jeevottama Math. His predecessor Purushottama Tirtha shifted to Gokarna where his samadhi is found and the math was called Gokarn Jeevotham Math. This Math headquarters was later (after the samadhi of Swamy Shrikanta Tirtha) shifted to Partagali village on the banks of the sacred rivulet Kushavati in Goa and thus came to be known as Gokarn-Partagali Math. The symbol representing the spiritual movement carried on by the math for over 500 years is one of the few huge ancient ‘Vatavriksha’ (Banyan tree) which is about 200ft. x 22 ft. and is considered a Tapasya Kshetra for over a thousand years. Vatavriksha and the Ishwar linga in front of the math at Partagali are worshipped by the people of Partagali and the adjoining area.

This place is popularly known as Bramhasthan. The Gokarn-Pratagali Math for Vaishnava saraswats has Vira Vittala as the worshipped deity. Present pontiff Vidhyadhiraj Teertha succeeded to the Peetha in 1973. Shri Swamiji was initiated into sanyas in Mumbai in Feb 26, 1967 by his illustrious preceptor Shrimat Dwarkanath Thirtha Swamiji. The Math has its headquarters at Partagali, Poinginim, Canacona, Goa.

Dasha-avatar carvings at Partagal

This math had a wide followers of Keladi rulers, vaishnava Saraswats and the undivided Kanara. This math has large network of its establishments in Bhatkal, Gokarna, Basrur, Dicholi, Rivona, Manglore , Ankola, Karwar, Varanasi, Manki , Vasco,Gangolli,Venkatapur,Honavar, Yellapur, Badrinath, Siddapur, Bangalore, Belgaum, Hubli, Madgaon and Wadala (Mumbai). The headquarters had been shifted from Bhatkal to Partagali Goa. This math was named after Swamy Jeevattam Tirtha. Now H.H. Shreemad Vidyadhiraj Teertha has succeeded to the Peetha. This Math has celebrated its Panch-Shatabadi (Quin-centenary).

Math Complex

The Math has an extensive library of religious books and 500 year old records in Marathi, Kannada and Persian pertaining to the Math and Goud Saraswat communities. There are stone inscriptions of even earlier period and copper plates written in Kannada script.

This place is popularly known as Bramasthan. Partagali is being developed into a centre of culture and learning, without in any way tampering with its glorious traditions.

 

Kashi Math

 

Kavalem
H. H. Shreemat Sudhindra Teertha Swamiji

Shri Kashi Math, was founded in 1542 A.D. and the first Swamiji Yadavendra Tirtha was given Deeksha by the celebrated Shrimat Vijayindra Tirtha Swamiji of Kumbhakonam Math. A copper plate charter issued by Surendra Tirtha on 21-1-1542 A.D. and received by Yadavendra Tirtha defines his jurisdiction over the Saraswats. During the 15th century, Sri Ramachandra Tirtha of Uttaradi math initiated two to sanyasa – Vibhudendra Tirtha and Sri Vidhyanidhi Tirtha. The latter became head of Uttaradi math and Sri Vibhudendra Tirtha founded a new Math at Kumbhakonam which came to be known as Purvadi Math (later became Raghavendra Swamy math since, great saint Raghavendra of Mantralaya fame belonged to this math). Saraswats of South Kanara and Kerala were transferred to this Math. When Surendra Tirtha was head of the Math at Kumbhakonam, one of his disciples, Vijayindra Tirtha (a Saraswat Brahmin) was invited by Cochin Saraswats to undertake Chaturmasya at Cochin in 1539–1540 A.D. They requested Him to initiate a Saraswat boy among them to Sanyasa. In 1541, Sri Hanumantha Bhaktha was selected and taken to Kumbakonam. The new Sanyasin was named Yadavendra Tirtha who eventually became head of the new Kashi Math at Varanasi established in 1542 A.D. Shri Kumbhakonam Math gave two idols of Lord Raghupati (Rama) and Vyasa to Shrimat Yadavendra Tirtha along with the rights to guide the Saraswat Samaj in spiritual matters. Shrimat Sudhindra Tirtha Swamiji the present pontiff and 20th in the lineage of Shri Kashi Mutt Samsthan was given sanyas deeksha by his preceptor, Shrimat Sukrateendra Tirtha Swami in Mulki on 24th May,1944.

The Kashi Math has its headquarters at Varanasi or Kashi. Kashi Math has an influx of followers from Kerala and South Kanara. Kashi math has its roots spread wide across the Indian nation from Haridwar to Tirupathi. It has organizations and branches at Kashi, Basrur, Bantwal, Baroda, Banglore, Calicut, Goa, Haridwar, Karkal, Kerala, Prayag, Rameshwaram, and Tirupathi. The math undertakes the responsibility of nurturing sanskrit schools and training purohits.

 

 

Chitrapur Math

 

Shirali

Shri Swami Sadyojat Shankarasharma

The group of Smartha Saraswats who migrated to Karnataka at the time of the Muslim invasion in the 1400’s were mostly the educators and administrators. This migrant group moved a little inland to North and South Kanara. Their intelligence and generations-old experience as administrators, allowed some of them to secure prominent positions as accountants in the courts of the Hindu rulers of the time. One such Hindu king of the Keladi kingdom, was so impressed by the diligence and skills of his Saraswat accountant, that he decreed that each village in his kingdom, be administered by a Saraswat. Eventually these Saraswats took on the name of the village as their last name. Once they had migrated to the Kanara district, the Shenvis were not able to sustain their unity with the Saraswat Brahmins they had left behind in Goa. Even though they continued to believe in Smartha tradition, their connection with the Kavalem math was cut off since the math at Kushathali was destroyed in 1564 A.D. and Swamijis shifted to Varanasi and were not available locally. Although the Saraswats were well respected as accountants, they were not readily recognized as true Brahmins by the local Brahmins (due to jealousy), accusing that the Saraswats have no spiritual guru in reality. Therefore, the Shenvis felt that it was necessary to seek a spiritual preceptor for their community. They pleaded with a Saraswat Sanyasi, Parijananasharma Swamy, visiting from North India, to become their Guru. He consented to guide the community and established a new Math for them in Gokarn in 1708 A.D. The people of Gokarn sent letters to the members residing in Mangalore and Vithal to notify them about the guru. Sringeri Shankaracharya math in the Kanara district was asked for their consent of the new guru which was granted.

This firmly established Parijnanashram Swami as the guru of the community. Shri Shankarashram Swami was ordained by Shri Parijnanashram Swami in 1720 A.D. as the second guru. In 1739 A.D., the ruler Basavappa Nayaka II donated land in Gokarn to build a math in reverence to their primary deity, Shri Bhavanishankar. Shri Shankarasharm Swamy when in his advanced age, was on his way from Udupi to Gokarn and while in Chitrapur, at the residence of Nagarkattikars an ardent devotee, he fell seriously ill and attained Samadhi in 1757 AD. When the question of location of His Samadhi came up, the Nagarkattikars readily offered their house for the Samadhi and a temple. A math was erected there at Chitrapur near Shirali in Uttara Kannada and soon it became headquarters of the Mutt.

The worshipped deity of the Chitrapur Mutt is Bhavani Shankar and follow the Smartha tradition. The last Swamiji Parijnanashram-III attained Samadhi in Bangalore in 1991 without appointing a successor. On February 27, 1997 Swami Sadyojat Samvit Giri was ordained as the reigning Guru of Chitrapur math and was named Shrimat Sadyojat Shankarashrama. The coronation ceremony was attended and blessed by H.H. Jagadguru Shankaracharya.

 

 

Dabholi Math

 

Dabholi

Kudaldeshkar Brahmans follow Shankaracharya’s Advait school of philosophy,and have tier own three centuries old Math in Dabholi village in Maharashtra. The first pontiff of the Shreemat Purnanand Swamiji was initiated into Sanyasa by HH Vishwananda Swamiji. The present 20th pontiff of the matha is HH Shreemat Pradyumnanand Swamiji.

Dabholi Math is renowned known as the Kudaldeshkars Math mainly due to its Smartha followers. It is located near Vengurla in Sindhudurg, Maharastra. The followers of this math are fragmented around few areas of Sawantwadi, Ratnagiri, Belgaum, Hubli, Dharwad and Kolhapur. This math promotes its preaching skills and its religious culture.

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The Flight of Gods 32. Shantadurga Temple, Dhargal

The Flight of Gods

by Mohan Pai

Sri Shantadurga Temple

Dhargal

This temple is located at Dhargal, about 14 km from Mapusa in Pernem taluka. This temple is dedicated to Shree Shantadurga, an incarnation of Goddess Parvati, consort of Lord Shiva. Photo by Mohan Pai

It is one of the few temples in Bardez that survived the Portuguese Inquisition and during that time the deity was moved from the house of Shree Kichkar of Taliwada, Mapusa to Sanquelim, which was then a part of the Maratha kingdom of Sawantwadi. Photo by Mohan PaiIt was subsequently installed at Dhargal in Pernem in 1550 ,which was then also a principality of the Sawantwadi kingdom. The main festival or “Zatra” falls in December and draws huge crowds.

 

 

 

 Photographs by Mohan Pai

 

The Flight of Gods 27. Aravalem Caves

The Flight of Gods

by Mohan Pai

Rock-cut Cave Temple

Aravalem

Aravalem Rock-cut caves – photo by Mohan Pai

The village of Aravalem is close to Sancolem in Bicholim taluk. The caves here were probably excavated in a laterite hillock by the Bhoja rulers in the sixth century AD.

Carved Lingas – photo by Mohan Pai

 

There are six cells resembling cubicles. Inside the caves are four carved lingas set into square rock-cut bases. These caves have long been thought to be of Buddhist origin, with the lingas installed after the decline of Buddhism – but this is not altogether certain and they may have been Brahminical caves from the start.
The local name for these caves is ‘Pandava Caves’ associated with the five Pandava brothers.
There is a small rivulet that flows in front of the caves. Aravalem waterfall and Sri Rudreshwar Temple is close by.
Aravalem waterfall – photo by Mohan Pai

The Flight of Gods 30. Damodar Sal, Margao

The Flight of Gods
by Mohan PaiDamodar Sal
Margao

 

photo by Mohan Pai

After the wholesale destruction of the Hindu temples in Mathagrama (Margao) there were no Hindu temples left in Margao.photo by Mohan Pai

Naik Shankahwalkar family of Margao consecrated a coconut brought from their gramadevata, Lord Damodar from Zambaulim, to be worshipped in the Sal of their ancestral house.

Damodar Sal became the centre of the religious life of the Hindu community in Margao until Hindu temples were built in the town at a later stage. However, Domodar Sal today is both sacred and a public place of worship.photo by Mohan Pai

An association of Hindu elders formed the Hindu Kaivari Sabha, later called the Mathagramasth Hindu Sabha held their regular meetings at the Damodar Sal and the old family house on Rua Abade Faria is still the base for social, cultural and religious activities.Old family house of Naik family that houses Damodar Sal – photo by Mohan Pai

Swami Vivekananda on a visit to Goa in 1898, (to acquaint himself with Christian teaching and seminary education) prior to his departure for Europe was a guest of Naik family at Damodar Sal.

The Flight of Gods 29. Vijayadurga Temple, Keri, Ponda

The Flight of Gods
by Mohan Pai

Sri Vijayadurga Temple

Keri, Ponda

Sri Vijayadurga Samsthan was originally situated at Sankhavali along with Sri Shanthadurga and Sri Laxmi Narshima.

Sri Vijayadurgae is a family deity as a Pallavi of many Brahmins. Shri Vijayadurga was once settled with Shri Shankleshwari Shantadurga and Shri Lakshminarsimha in Sankhwal, but due to Portuguese destruction spree the temple had to be shifted to Kerim from Sankhwal.

The Mantap – photo by Mohan Pai

 The Mahajans and kulavis belong to the same class as Shri Shankleshwari Shantadurga Devi of Gothana and Shri Lakshminarsimha. Shri Vijayadurga is considered a pallavi of those who have Kuladevta as Shri Shankleshwari Shantadurga, Anant Vitthal Purrush or Shri Lakshminarsimha.

The Temple Complex – photo by Mohan Pai

 It was once said that when the war going between Vishnu and Shiva was stopped by Shri Shantadurga when she took Vishnu and Shiva by her left and right hand, and according to the Skandapurana it is said that how Lord Shiva, when defeated by his spouse Parvati in a game of dice, had left mount Kailash and gone to Gomanchala near Kushasthali for tapasya (penance). It is here that he heard the cries of the Brahmin, Loma Sharma, caught by a crocodile in the river Aghanashini.

Deepasthambha – photo by Mohan Pai

 When Shiva saved Loma Sharma, he prayed to the Lord to remain in Kushasthali. Similarly, when Parvati arrived looking for Shiva, she was also requested to stay at the nearby village of Keloshi (Kadalivana Quelossim). This shrine of Shri Shantadurga Devi is Situated to the present day location, Kavlem and is often known as Kavlem Shantadurga.

Tirthastana, a natural water pond – photo by Mohan Pai

 The deity of Shantadurga is shown as holding two serpents, one in each hand, representing Vishnu and Shiva. She is then said have gone to Shankleswari a village in Ponda Taluka (goa in which she went to Gothana (a small place in Shankleswari) to kill the demons that were harassing the Brahmins.

Panchayatan Shrines – photos by Mohan Pai

 

As a reward, she was given the name of Vijaya where she is now called Shri Vijayadurga. Shri Vijayadurga shrine was located in Shankleshwari along with Shri Shantadurga and Shri LakshmiNarsimha but was later shifted to a place called Kerim in Ponda Taluka during the Portuguese destruction spree.

Tulasi Vrindavan – photo by Mohan Pai

Annual jatra is held in the month of Magha up to Shivaratri and also on Navaratri. 

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The Flight of Gods 25. Mahadev Temple, Tambdi Surla

The Flight of Gods

by Mohan Pai

Sri Mahadev Temple

Tambdi Surla

This was a lost temple, rediscovered sometime around 1935. Its remote location, deep inside forest even some distance from any village had made it in accessible for centuries and its survival is largely due to its location. Even until recently, the temple was still relatively in accessible.

The Temple Complex – photo by Mohan Pai

The temple that survived the ravages, is situated about 12 kms from Molem in the Anmod Ghats (the Western Ghats), almost on Goa’s border with Karnataka amidst thick forests where a beautiful stream flows with lush greenery all around.

A beautiful stream near the temple – photo by Mohan Pai

The temple was built in the 13th century AD and was built by the Goa-Kadamba dynasty and is in Kadamba style. It is built of black basalt stone, not locally available and which was obviously transported from a considerable distance.Shrine to Sri Vishnu – Phto by Mohan Pai

This is a comparatively small temple and consists of Garbhagriha, Antarala and Nandi Mantapa. In the garbhagriha there is a small Lingam mounted on a pedestal.Shrine to Sri Ganesha – photo by Mohan Pai

There is a slab roof design over the main hall and behind this rises typical Dravidian-style Shikara in a pyramid over the sanctuary. The central ceiling is beautifully carved in an eight-petalled lotus pattern with rosettes.

Central Ceiling in 8 petal lotus pattern – photo by Mohan Pai

There are four niches on the rear wall of the mantapa. In one of the niches is a standing idol of Vishnu. In the second and third niches there are coiled Nagas and in the fourth there is a standing Ganesha. These niches have a fascinating framework with four main columns topped by a replica of the temple Shikara.

The temple is an archaeological monument and being preserved by the Archaeological Survey of India.

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The Flight of Gods 24. Brahma Temple, Carambolim

The Flight of Gods 
By Mohan PaiShri Brahma Temple
Carambolim

Black basalt Brahma idol – photo by Mohan Pai

The temple is situated at a village called Brahma-Carambolim to distinguish it from CarambolimVillage near Old Goa, the original home of the deity. Brahma-Carambolim is located 7 km from Valpoi town in Sattari Taluk.

The stone sculpture of Brahma here is truly magnificent. Carved out of a single black basalt stone, it is one of the finest specimen of Kadamba art and is an ancient image still in worship. The sculpture has a beard on the central face. In his four hands he carries a ladle in his upper right hand, the book of Vedas in his upper left hand, Kamandalu in his lower left hand and chanting beads in his lower right hand which is in Varamudra posture.

Here again Brahma is a migrant deity, originally from the village with the same name – Carambolim that is located right next to Old Goa. The image was hurriedly carried away by its devotees. But where as most of the Gods saved in this way were installed nearby, just across the border, the Brahma image made a journey far to the east into the foothills of the Western Ghats.
There is no independent cult of Brahma, as according to Puranic version, Brahma was cursed by Shiva not to receive any worship and there are hardly any shrines to Brahma in India. Apart from Goa, there are two Brahma shrines in existence at Pushkar in Rajasthan and at Khajurao in Madhya Pradesh. In Goa, apart from Brahma-Carambolim where he is the main deity, he is also a Parivar Devata in Shri Bhagavati temple in Parse and Virnode temple in Pedne taluk and in Shri Shantadurga temple at Colomba in Sanguem taluk.

The Brahma worship in this region appears to have arrived during the period of early Chalukyas of Badami.The Shrine under renovation – photo by Mohan Pai

The temple at Brahma-Caramboli is a small plain building, hardly recognisable as a temple. The temple is under renovation and the sanctuary was in the midst of scaffolding when the author visited the temple in February, 2006. Regular pujas, however, are being conducted without interruption.

Vagheri Hills, Sahyadris – view from the Brahma Temple – photo by Mohan Pai

The Flight of Gods 23. Chandreshwar-Bhutanath Temple, Paroda

The Flight of Gods

by Mohan Pai

Shri Chandreshwar-Bhutanath Temple

Porvot, Paroda

 

Shri Chandreshwar – Bhutanath temple is one of the oldest temple in Goa, its antiquity going back to nearly one thousand six hundred years during the reign of Bhoja rulers (4th & 5th century AD). Bhojas have made reference to the temple in their copper-plate inscriptions. According to the tradition, the Bhoja ruler, Chandravarma whose capital was in Chandrapur was a devotee of Chandreshwar.

The Temple Complex – photo by Mohan Pai

The temple is magnificently situated on the Chandranath Hill simply called as ‘Porvot’with wooded slopes. A rough , rock stairway leads upwards to reach the summit.
The Mantap – photo by Mohan Pai

While the earlier temple was constructed during the Bhoja period it was in dilapidated condition by 1100 AD and the Goa Kadambas once again rebuilt the main temple. The present structure of the temple of Chandreshwar was constructed in 1877 and that of Bhutanath in 1917 AD. Tulasi Vrindavan – photo by Mohan Pai

However, the architectural parts such as the ceiling, the lintel and the pillars of granite clearly indicate that the temple was built during the Kadamba period.

Pillared Hall – photo Mohan Pai

Shri Chandreshwar is represented by Svayambhu Linga carved out of and part of the natural outcrop of rock, a mukhalinga with sculpted face. Water seeps from the Linga at the time of the full moon and the design of the temple allows the moon’s rays to fall on the sanctuary.

‘Amrut Manthan’ mural on top of the main entrance to Chandreshwar temple – photo by Mohan Pai

 The small shrine of Bhutanath is located on the left hand side adjacent to the main temple. There is no image of Bhutanath and he is represented by a meter high irregular, unsculpted natural stone. Bhutanath is one of the 64 Bhairavas. According to Sahyadri Khanda of Skanda Purana, Bhutanath didn’t want to be left on Kailas when Shiva changed his abode from Kailas to Chandranath Hill. So he prayed and requested Shiva to allow him to stay with him on Chandranath Hill.

Though this is a Shaivite Shrine, like Gokulashtami at Saptakoteshwar temple, Ramanavami (Shri Rama’s birthday) is celebrated at Chandreshwar-Bhutanath temple as an annual feast.A view of the Sahyadris from ‘Porvot” – photo by Mohan Pai

The Flight of Gods 21. Mallikarjun Temple, Gaondongrem

The Flight of Gods

by Mohan Pai Shri Mallikarjun Temple

Gaondongrem

Shri Mallikarjun Temple, Gaondongrem is situated in Canacona Taluka in South Goa. This deity is mainly worshipped by Gavades, Kunbis, Velips and the Marathas.

The Linga is believed to be Swayabhu linga, uncovered by a member of the Kunbi community while clearing the forest and it is a phallic shaped uncut stone covered with a metallic mask.
The legend mentions that the demon Malla was fighting with one of the Pandava brothers, Arjuna. Shiva assumed the form of a hunter and killed Malla and saved Arjuna and hence the name ‘Mallikarjun’.

The Shikara – photo Mohan Pai

The festivals held at Gaondongrem are Shisharanni (cooking on the head-earth) and annual Zatra. During the festival of Shishranni, the performance and rituals include bathing of the gade, dress, smearing of sandal paste on the entire body. Heads are covered with wet cloth and layers of plantain trunk and piercing needles in the abdomen as well as left arm. Head-hearth is formed of three heads of Gade.

Deepasthamba – photo Mohan Pai

A unique collection of three replicas of stone of decapitated human heads could be seen here.
The ritual of hunting ia a compulsary ritual held every three years with group of traditional hunters gather at the shrine and proceed to the jungle. The head of the hunted animal is cut and worshipped at the shrine and all members share the flesh.

One of the wooden pillars in the mandapa is used as the oracle pillar in the temple.

 

Image of Paik outside the temple – photo Mohan Pai

Shree Mallikarjun is a popular, tribal deity in Goa. There are 14 shrines of Mallikarjun spread all over Goa. The striking similarity in these shrines is that all idols are in phallic shape and covered with metallic masks. The lingas are believed to be ‘Swaymbhu’ lingas. In some shrines the daily worship is performed by Brahmin priest only for a certain designated period and during the rest of the period, the Kunbi priests namely Velip and Zalmi perform the daily worship. The ritual of hunting is associated with some of the Mallikarjun shrines.

Tulasi Vrindavan – photo Mohan Pai

According to the records two ancient shrines of Mallikarjun existed in Bardez at Assgao and Pomburpa which were demolished by the portugese.

The Flight of Gods 20. Datta Mandir, Sancolem

The Flight of Gods
by Mohan Pai

Sri Datta Mandir

Sancolem

 

Gateway to Datta Mandir

 With the growing atmosphere of tolerance, or indifference by the Portugese authorities many Hindu shrines and temples appeared in the late 19th century over the length and breadth of the New Conquests.The Temple Complex – photo by Mohan Pai

Sri Datta Mandir at Sancolem, about 6 kms from Bicholim was one of the temples built during this period (1882). It follows the more conventional design and is built on fairly traditional lines but with a dome.

The Mantap – photo by Mohan Pai

 

The temple is situated near a river in wooded surroundings. There are two old Audumbar trees at the entrance to the courtyard.

 

photo by Mohan Pai

Datta Jayanti, the main annual festival of the temple is held in December and attracts devotees from all over Goa.

Shri Datta Guru’s animals in marble – photo by Mohan Pai