The Flight of Gods 33. Mahalakshmi Temple, Panaji

The Flight of Gods
by Mohan Pai

Sri Mahalakshmi Temple

Panaji

The Temple Entance – phot by Mohan Pai

 This Temple is located in the city of Panaji, off Dada Vaidhya road at the Altinho foothill. It was the first Hindu temple allowed to be built by the Portuguese in Goa after 300 years after bitter opposition. It was approved by the Portuguese authorities in 1818 after a long delay and built subsequently on contrubutions made by the devotees. It was most recently renovated in 1983. The deity of the temple originally came from the village of Taleigao and was moved to Bicholim in the 16th century to escape Portuguese destruction. For a short while during the approval process for building the temple the deity remained at the house of Mhamai Kamat, near the Idalcao’s palace.

Sabha Mantap – photo by Mohan Pai

The deity is Goddess Mahalakshmi (the Hindu Goddess of Wealth), made of black stone, with four hands and is placed in a silver canopy. This is the peaceful or Satvik form of Devi. According to the Shakti cult (worship of power), Mahalakshmi is the original Goddess who takes forms according to three aspects or gunas viz. Brahma (peaceful, calm form or satva), Vishnu (creative action or rajas) and Shiva (destruction or tamas). The deity originally from Mayem in Bicholim taluka was transferred to the present site.
A brief History of the Temple

This 182 year old temple has a fascinating history. In the 16th century the Havig Brahmins from Karwar-Kumtha areas who lived on alms and charity of others worshipped the Mahalaxmi deity and wherever they went in search of alms they carried this deity along. In the 16th century, they moved to Goa along with this diety and reached Taleigo village of which Panjim was then a mere ward, along the river Gomati (Mandovi). The Havig Brahmins whose whole day was spent begging for alms had sought shelter in the precincts of the Vetal temple of Taleigao. But when they learnt of the conversion policy of the Portuguese, fearing desecration of their revered Mahalakshmi idol made of marble, they moved away from Taleigao and as they were moving on they found a horse stable which actually belonged to the Portuguese government.

A gentleman called Raghavendra Kamat Mhamai who worked for the Portuguese military found that this place selected by the Havig Brahmins to hide their deity was unsafe and hence moved it to his palatial house opposite the Adilshahi palace (Secretariat) in the heart of Panjim city. Still fearing for the safety and security of the deity, he moved it to Mayem village of the Bicholim Taluka where it remained till 1817.

Sometime later in 1817, Narayan Kamat Mhamai of Panaji dreamt of the deity and the next day itself he along with others went to Mayem and brought the diety to Panjim and hid it at a place where stands the People’s High School today. That corner at the People’s High School is still venerated where the deity was kept hidden.
He later moved it to his house and started worshipping it there. He expressed his desire to a friend Mr. Sinari of building a temple to consecrate this diety. They seeked the permission of the liberal Portuguese governor Conde De Rio Pardo, which was granted to them on 2nd July 1818.

On 10 July 1818, the deity was consecrated there and the foundation stone of the Mahalakshmi temple was laid. Refusing to be cowed down by the heavy monsoon downpours of Goa, the pious devotees led by the late Shri Narayan Kumar Mhamai, Mr. Sinari and others consecrated the Mahalakshmimi deity in the backyard of Panjim city on 10 July 1818.

By 1819, the temple was completed. The original deity today lies in a small box in the rear wall of the temple which faces the present day main idol of Goddess Mahalakshmi. The magnificent subhamandap of the temple has been added later and today the recently completed new building of the temple stands proudly as a superb addition to the landmarks of Panjim city.

The Havig Brahmins whose whole day was spent begging for alms had sought shelter in the precincts of the Vetal temple of Taleigao. But when they learnt of the conversion policy of the Portuguese, fearing desecration of their revered Mahalakshmi idol made of marble, they moved away from Taleigao and as they were moving on they found a horse stable which actually belonged to the Portuguese government.
A gentleman called Raghavendra Kamat Mhamai who worked for the Portuguese military found that this place selected by the Havig Brahmins to hide their deity was unsafe and hence moved it to his palatial house opposite the Adilshahi palace (Secretariat) in the heart of Panjim city. Still fearing for the safety and security of the deity, he moved it to Mayem village of the Bicholim Taluka where it remained till 1817.

Sometime later in 1817, Narayan Kamat Mhamai of Panaji dreamt of the deity and the next day itself he along with others went to Mayem and brought the diety to Panjim and hid it at a place where stands the People’s High School today. That corner at the People’s High School is still venerated where the deity was kept hidden.
He later moved it to his house and started worshipping it there. He expressed his desire to a friend Mr. Sinari of building a temple to consecrate this diety. They seeked the permission of the liberal Portuguese governor Conde De Rio Pardo, which was granted to them on 2nd July 1818.

On 10 July 1818, the deity was consecrated there and the foundation stone of the Mahalakshmi temple was laid. Refusing to be cowed down by the heavy monsoon downpours of Goa, the pious devotees led by the late Shri Narayan Kumar Mhamai, Mr. Sinari and others consecrated the Mahalakshmimi deity in the backyard of Panjim city on 10 July 1818.

By 1819, the temple was completed. The original deity today lies in a small box in the rear wall of the temple which faces the present day main idol of Goddess Mahalakshmi. The magnificent subhamandap of the temple has been added later and today the recently completed new building of the temple stands proudly as a superb addition to the landmarks of Panjim city.
Flower shops at the temple  – photo by Mohan Pai

 

The Flight of Gods 32. Shantadurga Temple, Dhargal

The Flight of Gods

by Mohan Pai

Sri Shantadurga Temple

Dhargal

This temple is located at Dhargal, about 14 km from Mapusa in Pernem taluka. This temple is dedicated to Shree Shantadurga, an incarnation of Goddess Parvati, consort of Lord Shiva. Photo by Mohan Pai

It is one of the few temples in Bardez that survived the Portuguese Inquisition and during that time the deity was moved from the house of Shree Kichkar of Taliwada, Mapusa to Sanquelim, which was then a part of the Maratha kingdom of Sawantwadi. Photo by Mohan PaiIt was subsequently installed at Dhargal in Pernem in 1550 ,which was then also a principality of the Sawantwadi kingdom. The main festival or “Zatra” falls in December and draws huge crowds.

 

 

 

 Photographs by Mohan Pai

 

Flight of Gods 11. Shantadurga Temple, Kavalem

 

The Flight of Gods
by Mohan PaiShri Shantadrga Temple
Kavalem

 

Shri Shantadurga of Kavalem is a ‘migrant’ deity from Keloshi shifted here duringthe exodus of 1560s. Unlike the valley temples in this area, the temple of Shri Shantadurga stands on a slope of the hillside with a wide flight ofsteps leading up to the high gateway with the water tank on the left. The gleaming white dome is emphasised by the contrast with the terracota colours of the main structure.

The octagonal tower over the inner shrine has a higher drum with two stories, with its dome topped by an elegant lantern with a small dome and then a finial with spheres representing water pots.

In the first half of the 18th century, Naro Ram Mantri, himself a devotee of Shri Shantadurga and a Minister of Shahu Maharaj of Satara, funded the building of the temple and persuaded vassal King of Sonda to contribute the lands of the village of Kavalem to the temple estate. This temple has had frequent additions over the years.Deepasthamba – photo by Mohan Pai

The name of the goddess ‘Shantadurga’ is in itself a contradiction of terms. Shanta meaning peace and Durga being the very embodiment of violence. The legend says that there was a fierce quarrel between Shiva and Vishnu, which turned into a full-scale war so violent that the very existence of the Universe was threatened.

Mantap – photo by Mohan Pai

Brahma approached Durga to intervene. This she did, restoring peace and harmony amongst the Gods. From this time, she is also called Shantadurga, indicating peaceful aspects of Durga. The main shrine contains an image of the goddess Shantadurga flanked on one side by Lord Vishnu and on the other by Lord Shiva.

 

The main affiliate deity is Shri Lakshminarayana,whose shrine is an extension to the right of themandapa. There is also a small shrine to goddess Bhagavati under a aravali tree on its platform.Shri Bhagavati Shrine

Barring only two shrines outside Goa (in Karnataka), it is only in Goa that Goddess Durga is worshipped as Shantadurga. There is an interesting history about this new home of the goddess at Kavalem. The land chosen for the temple belonged to the Mahars, the untouchable community, and they were asked to give up the site for a temple where they would not be welcome. But they finally did agree and in recognition of their deed, a special day is reserved for members of Mahar community to worship during the annual celebrations of the temple when they are allowed inside the temple.
Tirthasthana – photo by Mohan Pai

Goddess Shantadurga is also called Santeri and is perhaps the most popular goddess of Goa. Apart from being an affiliate deity in many temples she has shrines all over Goa.The popularity could be attributed to her being associated with the cult of Santeri or Bhumica – the mother goddess or Earth mother which is worshipped in the form of an anthill.
The second chapter of Nagavya Mahatmyain Sahyadri Khanda of Skanda Puran is titled ‘Shantadurga Pradurbhavah’. One of the verses in this section mentions the disappearance of the goddess into an anthill.

Sacred Anthill

Santeri’s origins according to legend goes back to pre-Dravidian times; she was the Earth Goddess and her shrine was the anthill. There exist around 86 shrines in Goa in the form of the anthill and most of them are in open spaces, mostly in the vicinity of fields and forests. It is also believed that a serpent (Nag) always resides in the anthill. In several shrines of Santeri in Goa, a figure of serpent is displayed near the anthill. A metallic mask is also sometimes placed on the anthill to represent the goddess.
She is an ancient folk deity worshipped by the tribals (Gavadas) of Goa and with the advent of tantrism in South India many folk deities were absorbed into the Brahminical fold. In due course of time these Shaktis were associated with Shiva. Hence Santeri is associated with Ravalnath, a Shaivite deity of Goa and South Konkan.

The Flight of Gods 10. Shri Saptakoteshwar Temple, Narvem

 

The Flight of Gods
by Mohan Pai

Shri Saptakoteshwar Temple

Narvem

The idol – photo by Mohan Pai

 

This is one of the greatest Shaivite shrines of Goa which has a chequered and turbulent history of more than one thousand years. Saptakoteshwar was the family deity of the Kadambas of Goa. and they honoured it by featuring the legend and the Shikara on their gold coins. The gold coins of Jayakeshi I (1050-1080AD) and Jayakeshi II (1104-1147 AD) carry the inscription.
The temple was destroyed several times by the marauding Muslims and later by the Portugese. The Lingam itself is one of the most sacred relic which has been equated with that of the Kedarnath in the Puranas and its presence endowed on Goa the designation of Konkan Kashi. This sacred relief, however, had to be buried inthe paddy fields to avoid desecration and had to face the ignominy of being turned into the step of a well so that people drawing water could commit the sacrilege of stepping on it.

This same mukhalingam, however, had the privilege of being venerated by two very illustrious personalities in the Indian history. Madhav Mantri, the famous general of the Vijaynagar Empire and the great Maratha hero, Shivaji Maharaj. Both of them, rebuilt, the Saptakoteshwar Shrine after its destruction.
Adil Shah’s Gate located in the front yard of Cajetan’s Church at Old Goa where his palace once stood is a transplant from a brahminical temple of the Kadamba period. Adil Shah’s palace was built at the site of (and with building materials from) the Saptakoteshwar temple built by Shivachitta Permadideva (1147-1172 AD) and his wife Kamaladevi in 1155 AD when Govapuri was the capital of the Kadambas. The temple had become a major centre of religious worship and prilgrimage.
Adil Shah’s Gate, Old Goa – photo Mohan Pai

The temple was destroyed during the attacks by the Bahamanis between 1355 and 1366 AD which also ended the Kadamba rule in Goa. The main idol was buried in a nearby rice field for fear of desecretion in 1356.
Andre Corsali in a letter to Duke Giulianode Medicia dated 6th January,1515 refers to an ancient temple, “which was built with wonderful skill with ancient figures of a certain black stone worked with great perfection, of which some are standing, ruined and spoilt. Should I have in hand any (figure) thus ruined, I shall send it to Your Highness that your Highness may see how in ancient times sculpture was appreciated elsewhere” – This referred to none other than the Saptakoteshwar temple.
The next site was in the island of Divar across the river Gomati (Mandovi) where a new temple wasbuilt in local stone but this was also destroyed by the Bahamanis.
In 1378 AD Goa became a part of theVijayanagar Empire when MadhavMantri, the Vijayanagar General marched into Goa at the head of a large army and ousted the Muslim ruler.
A Kashmiri Saraswat Brahmin, a Vedic scholar, an ardent Shaivite and a patron of learning, Madhav Mantri who was the Governor of the region for 12 years restored the buried idol and rebuilt the Saptakoteshwar temple at Narve-Divar in 1391.

Deepasthambha – photo by Mohan Pai

The temple was once again razed to the ground by Muhammad Gawan in1471 during his plundering of Goa and then rebuilt by the local community until its final and complete destruction between 1540 and 1558. This time it was the Portugese – the infamous Miguel Vaz who took upon himself to destroy the famous shrine.
Narayan Surya Rao in his dream saw the Linga from the Saptakoteshwar temple being desecrated. The dream became a nightmare when he saw that the Portugese authorities had placed the linga at the foot of a well so that people drawing water would step on it. Another version suggests thatit was used as a makeshift pulley over which to draw water. The rope marks are still said to be visible. Narayan Surya Rao, who was a Sardesai, gathered a small group of men and crept towards the site of the well to save the sacred Linga.

They carried the Linga outside the Portugese territory. The Portugese in hot pursuit killed Narayan Rao’s brother. After two years the Linga was transferred to its present home called Narvem and placed in a sanctuary dug out in a rock and Narayan Rao built a small shrine there in 1549.
When Shivaji Maharaj camped in Bicholim, he provided funds and asked the temple to be rebuilt in the year 1668 at its present site. Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj doing puja of Shri Saptakoteshwar (Painting at the temple) – Photo by Mohan Pai

PURANIC LEGEND
References to Saptakoteshwar are found in Sahyadri Khanda of Skanda Purana and also in Saura Purana. According tothe legend the Sapta Rishis (The Seven Sages) performed penance for seven crore (Saptakoti) years.

Due to the severe penance by the Sapta Rishis, Shiva was pleased and appeared before them and offered them a boon. The sages requested the Lord to make the island of Dipavati (Diwadi) his permanent abode. The Lingam is considered as important as that of Kedarnath and Goa is considered as Konkan-Kashi.

Mantap area – Photo by Mohan Pai

Though Saptakoteshwar is a Shaivite shrine, the Linga of Saptakoteshwar is considered not only the abode of Shiva but also of Vishnu, Brahma andBhairava. Both Hari and Hara are present in the Linga. Krishna Janmashtami is celebrated on a grand scale in this temple. Taking bath on this occasion in the river near the shrine is considered meritorius. The belief is that the river becomes Pancha Ganga on the Gokulashtami day. Even in the 16th century large crowd of devotees estimated to be over thirty thousand would assemble and bathe in the sacred waters.
Gauravas were probably associated with Saptakoteshwar temple during the Kadamba and Vijayanagara period. However, Saptakoteshwar also happens to be the family deity of Goud Sarsawats and Karhade Brahmins.